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              Outbreak Magazine Issue #11 - Article 17 of 18
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Executioner Box II - By Captain B
---------------------------------

Before anything else, let me make the purpose of both this, and the 
original version of the Executioner Box crystal clear, (Since there seems 
to have been some confusion about it). The Executioner Box I and II was 
NOT designed or intended for the purposes of being connected to phones, 
phone lines, and all other CPE (Customer Premise Equipment) and left 
turned on/unattended. Both versions of the Executioner Box are meant for 
the purposes of frying phones, modems, CID (Caller ID) units, fax 
machines, answering machines, and all other telecom devices connected to any 
given phone line, NOT people! To acheive this, you only need to keep 
the Executioner Box I or II plugged in/turned on for a few moments. NOT 3 
mins, or anything like that! Please be fully aware of the dangerous 
nature of the Executioner Box I and II. ESPECIALLY when the Executioner 
Box I or II is misused! Speaking of which, I will NOT be held responsible 
for the blatant misuse of the Executioner Box I or II. Do not operate 
while under the influence of alcohol, sleep aids and other narcotics, or 
wanton stupidity. Hopefully, this lengthy (and perhaps all-inclusive) 
disclaimer has routed out all potential ignorance. It should also be 
noted that unless you isolate the subscriber line by disconnecting the 
person's inside wiring from the telephone network at the TNI (Telephone 
Network Interface) box, the over-voltage/current surge can do damage to 
telecom equipment back at the CO (Central Office). To disconnect the 
line from the phone network with newer model TNI boxes, plug a working 
phone into the test jack on the customer side (left side) of the TNI box. 
With older model TNI boxes, remove the plug from the short, black 
colored line cord from the test jack. To locate where the TNI box is, look 
for a grayish colored  rectangular shaped box on an outside wall of a 
building. And yes, it will say "Telephone Network Interface", or maybe 
some slight variation of that on it. Some TNI boxes even have the 
telephone company's name on it. But, some TNI boxes are placed too high up on 
a wall of some buildings to be able to be reached easily. Also, you're 
going to need either a standard Phillips or flat head screwdriver to 
open the customer side of a TNI box, or you'll need a 3/8" hex nutdriver 
to open the entire TNI box through the telco access side. If there's a 
padlock on the TNI box, you'll have to open the TNI box from the telco 
access side, since that sort of "bypasses" the padlock. However, some 
buildings may not have a TNI box at all in the first place. The basic, 
overall principal behind Executioner Box II remains EXACTLY the same as 
for the first version of the Executioner Box; And that's to send more 
voltage/current than the phones and all other phone equipment is able to 
safely handle, thereby "frying" all phones and phone equipment 
connected to a given phone line. For comparison sake, the highest normal 
voltage on a phone line is during when a phone is ringing. (85-90 Volts AC, 
depending on how far you live from your central office). Also, the  
ringing AC voltage for phone lines is about 20Hz (cycles) per second, where 
as a standard electrical outlet in a house has between 110-120VAC 
(Volts AC) at around 60Hz per second. The more phones and phone equipment 
there is connected to a given phone line, the more ringing power 
(voltage/current) is needed to make all the phones ring. Because, of course, 
all phones/phone equipment draw power from the phone line. Anyway, here 
are the differences between the 1st and 2nd versions of the Executioner 
Box...

-On/off cord switch
-More compact design (..of surface mount phone jack used in this)

Plus, I'll give more alternative ways to build this box. Let me point 
out however that the more compact design of the phone jack used for 
Executioner Box II only allows for the ability to fry phones and phone 
equipment on up to 2 lines at once, as compared to up to 3 lines at once 
for the original Executioner Box. To use Executioner Box II on up to 3 
lines at once, substitute the Radio Shack RJ25 (3-line) surface mount 
jack used in Executioner Box I instead of using the 2 line surface mount 
jack mentioned here. Here's what you'll need to make this box...

-Wire cutters (The Radio Shack nippy cutters are great, but not 
madatory)
-Wire stripper
-AC lamp cord (It has a twistable on/off switch built into the cord
-Small, surface mount phone jack (This can be bought at Home Depot 
under the RCA brand name, or from K-mart under the Southwestern Bell brand 
name for about $3 +tax)

The wire cutters/stripper can be bought at Radio Shack. A variety of 
different types are availible, and no one particular type is mandatory to 
buy for this project. Any type should do. As for the AC lamp cord, you 
could simply cut one off an old lamp that either doesn't work, or you 
don't plan on using anymore. Just as long as the AC cord is good, and 
the on/off switch on the cord works, It's alright to use for building 
this box. If you don't have an old lamp with a on/off switch on the cord, 
you might find an old lamp for cheap at a garage sale, yard sale, flea 
market, 2nd hand store, or perhaps even some junk shop. But, if you 
want to buy an AC lamp cord you can be sure is in good working order, you 
can buy one for $3.98 +tax at Home Depot stores. You'll have to cut the 
light bulb socket off the end of the AC cord before it can be used for 
making this box. Also, it should be mentioned that actually ANY working 
AC power cord can be used for building Executioner Box II. But, with a 
lamp cord, you have the ability to turn the power on/off more quickly 
and easily. (Which, of course, can be pretty important with Executioner 
Box I and II). If, however, you don't mind using an AC cord without a 
built-in on/off switch, you may want to buy an electric shaver cord. 
Since electric shaver cords are coiled, it prevents cord tangles, which is 
helpful if you need to disconnect everything and pack up in a hurry. If 
you can solder, and own a soldering iron, and solder, it might be 
possible to solder up (add) a small SPST (Single Pole, Single Throw) on/off 
switch. Having some rosin flux solder paste would help, too. (It makes 
soldered joints stronger). To do this, you would also need to make a 
hole big enough somewhere in the phone jack's chasis to put in the on/off 
switch. And, with both the AC cord's wire leads, and the 4 phone wires 
inside the fairly small confines of the phone jack, it makes adding 
your own on/off switch all the more difficult. Of course, if you'd rather, 
you can actually use any size 1 piece, self contained, surface mount 
phone jack for making this box. ("Self contained" means the screw 
terminals (42A block) and phone jack are built together in 1 piece, the back 
half, and the outer cover attaches over it). If you still want to try 
adding your own switch into the phone jack chasis, and building 
Executioner Box II in that way, just make sure to buy an SPST switch that 
supports enough amperage (current). Look on the switch's package to find out 
the voltage/current ratings. Smaller switches tend to support less 
current. Running more voltage or current into a switch above the 
voltage/current ratings is risky. The same holds true for all electronic 
components. It's possible to use foreign standard (220-240 Volts AC) with 
Executioner Box II if you buy the 40 watt step-up voltage converter, (Part# 
273-1411 for about $33 +tax) and the foreign adapter travel kit, (Part# 
273-1407 for about $12 +tax) both from Radio Shack. But remember, the 
more voltage/current is used when running this box, the more dangerous 
it gets. Besides, I happen to know fact from testing the Executioner Box 
I that 110-120 Volts AC is enough to do job of frying phones and phone 
equipment. In other words, using 220-240 Volts AC is not a must.

-Construction-
First, remove the outer cover from the surface mount phone jack. Then, 
take the AC cord and cut about 5-6 feet of it (or desired length) using 
wire cutters, or a wire cutter/stripper. If you use an AC extension 
cord for making this box, you obviously want the plug at one end, then 
5-6Ft. of cord afterward. (So, cut the extension outlets off the other 
end). Now, using the wire cutters, carefully cut a small notch up the 
center between the 2 wires on the AC cord. (The Radio Shack nippy cutters 
with their small size are good for this job). After cutting the small 
notch, grab each half of the AC cord, and very slowly and carefully pull 
apart the 2 wires on the cord a bit more. Give yourself maybe about 4-5 
inches length of each of the 2 wire leads. Now that you have each 
insulated wire seperated at the end of the cord, you'll need to strip the 
insulation off each insulated wire lead at the ends. Carefully strip off 
about an inch or so of insulation on each wire end. If you have solder 
and soldering iron, you can also "tin the tips" of the AC cord wire 
leads after they've been stripped, if you so desire. Otherwise, you may 
want to simply twist the copper strands of the wire together with your 
fingers, to make the wire leads easier to work with. Now, take the 
screwdriver and loosen, but don't remove, the screws holding the yellow and 
black wires. Also loosen, but don't remove, the screws holding the red 
and green wires. Attach the yellow wire to the same screw holding the 
red wire. After that, attach the black wire to the screw holding the 
green wire in the same manner. If you want, you can now remove the other 2 
screws now that no wires are no longer attached to those screws. Note: 
if you have 6 wires (Red, green, yellow, black, blue, and white) you're 
using a 3-line jack. For a 3 line jack, take the screwdriver and 
loosen, but don't remove, the screws holding the blue, white, yellow, and 
black wires. Also loosen, but don't remove, the screws holding the red and 
green wires. Attach the blue and yellow wires under the same screw 
holding the red wire. You can attach it underneath the 2 washers on the 
screw just like red wire is attached, or attach it any other way. After 
you're done with that, attach the white and black wires to the screw 
holding the green wire in the same manner. If you want, you can now remove 
the other 4 screws now that no wires are no longer attached to those 
screws. Now, attach one of the stripped wire ends from the AC cord to one 
of the screws holding the phone wires, making sure to wrap it clockwise 
firmly around the screw under the screw's head. Then, tighten that 
screw down using the screwdriver. Repeat the process with the other 
stripped wire end from the AC cord, attaching it to the other screw, and 
tightening the screw down. Run the AC cord through the opening in the side 
of the jack, snap the phone jack's outer cover back on, and you're done. 
By the way, there's no need to worry about correct polarity 
(Ring/Negative, Tip/Positive) when hooking up the wire leads of the AC cord to the 
screws since the voltage you'll be using is AC, (Alternating Current) 
which repeatedly and constantly changes direction of current flow. Only 
DC (Direct Current) has only 1 proper current flow direction. 
Executioner Box I or II can also be hooked up to any corded phone if you modify 
a handset cord by cutting off the handset cord plug on one end of the 
handset cord, and crimping on a line cord plug at that same end. Then, 
simply disconnect the existing handset cord from the handset cord jack 
in the base of the phone you'll be connecting up Executioner Box I or II 
to, connect the line cord plug end of the modified handset cord into 
the surface mount jack on Executioner Box I or II, and connect the other 
handset cord plug end into the handset cord jack on the phone's base. 
Details of how to modify a handset cord in this way can be found in my 
"Conversion box" file. And, since the basic concept behind that was 
essentially taken from my Bungee box, that could also be used for 
reference, too. But, the thing is, if you connect the Executioner Box I or II 
directly to a phone in this way, you'll also ruin that phone. Even so, I 
just wanted you to know it was possible to connect up Executioner Box I 
or II in this way. Anyway, on to how to use this.=20

-Usage-
If you're going to use this at someone's TNI, (Network Interface)  
you'll need a portable source of AC voltage, like a portable generator. 
Some portable generators are quite noisy, because they use moving parts 
like a motor to serve as the alternator for generating the necessary AC 
voltage/current. So, you'll want to get a portable generator that uses a 
battery for power, and runs quiet. Last I seen, Radio Shack sold a 
portable generator called PortaWattz that operated on a 12v battery, could 
handle up to 300 Watts, and had an AC output of 115VAC. Which is 
perfect. You'll want a generator that can put out between 110-120VAC. But, 
this Radio Shack generator is only availible through Radio Shack 
Unlimited (Comapny direct sales) last time I checked. So, you won't find it in 
Radio Shack stores. And, at $149.99 +tax (as listed in their 2001 
catalog) It's quite expensive. But otherwise, without a portable generator, 
you'd only be able to use the Executioner box wherever you have access 
to an AC electrical outlet. At any rate, whether using it at a TNI, or 
at a standard phone jack, the basic principal remains the same. Connect 
up a modular line cord to the Executioner box that's connected to a 
working phone jack. Plug the AC power cord into a working AC outlet (turn 
it on if you're using a lamp cord with an on/off switch), and within a 
moment or so, you'll fry the internal electronic components of all 
phones, and phone equipment attached to the phone line in the house. 
Needless to say, this is obviously a box you only want to use on your 
enemies. Also, I definitely suggest you either turn off or unplug Executioner 
box II before very long, as leaving it plugged in/turned on for long 
periods of time could run the risk of starting a fire. Phones and all 
phone equipment simply aren't meant to handle this kind of voltage and 
current. Also, phone voltage is typically DC (Except when ringing). 
Speaking of that, when you connect up Executioner box II, it will make all 
phones on the line ring. Even if they're off the hook. Anyway, let's get 
back to the topic of using the Executioner Box II at a TNI. Simply open 
the TNI on the customer access side. (You could open the whole TNI 
through the Telco Access side, but It's not necessary). Remove the plug of 
the short line cord from the test jack. It would be the one with wires 
running into the house attached to the 2 screw terminals alongside the 
test jack. (Unused test jacks don't have connection to the phone wiring 
from the house). After unplugging the cord from the test jack, connect 
it to  Executioner box II. With newer model TNI boxes (which have no 
short line cord plugged into the test jack), you've got to plug in a 
working phone into the test jack, then connect up the Executioner Box II 
via a line cord modified alligator clips. And, attach the alligator clips 
to the ends of the wire leads of the phone line running into the house. 
If need be, you can unscrew those wire leads from the 2 screw terminals 
they're connected to inside the TNI box. Now, turn on the power for the 
generator, and turn the AC cord's on/off switch on (if you built this 
box with that kind of cord) for a brief moment or so, then turn it off. 
Quickly unplug the line cord from Executioner box II, and plug it back 
into the test jack where it was. Close up the TNI, pack up all your 
stuff, and get the hell out of there, FAST! One final note: It's not a 
good idea to connect up the Executioner box and use it inside your house, 
or anyone else's, since the voltage surge could travel all the way back 
to your local CO (Central Office) and cause problems for other area 
phone lines. Remember, this box is dangerous with a capital "D"! So, 
exercising caution when using it is definitely the best way to go. And, you 
may want to have some one come along with you to serve as "look out". 
If you want to test the effects of this box on only 1 phone that you 
don't need anymore, just connect a phone line cord between Executioner box 
II and the phone. Plug in the AC cord into an AC outlet (turn the AC 
cord switch on, if you've built this using a lamp cord) for a brief 
moment or so, then unplug the AC cord (or turn the cord switch off). 
Congrats! Another phone rendered totally dead and useless. Again, be careful 
and intelligent about how, when and where you use this box, and have 
phun.
